When Pizza Meets Wine

What’s the difference between the new Antica pizzeria and its sister restaurant L.A. Trattoria? A doorway.

Antica may have its own entrance, but when you walk inside you’ll find that the two restaurants are connected. Sit down and the waiter will hand you a menu--from L.A. Trattoria.

What’s new is that L.A. Trattoria has got itself a proper pizza oven. What comes out are thin, blistered pies, crisp-crusted, with mostly traditional Italian toppings: tomatoes, eggplant, basil, anchovies. Best of all, with the pizza you can order a decent Italian bottle from the restaurant’s modest but intelligent wine list--obviously the work of someone who loves wine.

* Antica, 8022 W . 3rd Street, Los Angeles, (213) 658-7607. Pizzas $6.75-$8.75.