Eating of the Green : Basic Green

* When buying spinach, select bunches containing crisp, small green leaves that are not blemished or torn. Organic spinach is always preferable.

* To prepare spinach for cooking, cut across the largest stems by cutting just above the wire that holds the bunch together. Break off any remaining stems. Wash spinach in a large bowl of cold water or, if washing several bunches, in a sink filled with cold water. Change the water about three times, each time allowing the dirt to settle to the bottom. With your hands, carefully lift out the spinach, trying not to disturb the grit that has settled to the bottom, and place in a colander. Clean the bowl or sink and refill with water. Place the spinach back in the water and repeat until the bottom surface is free of grit.

* To cook spinach, lift the spinach out of the water and place in a very large skillet with just the water that clings to the leaves. Add a dash of salt. Cook, covered, over high heat, stirring often to make sure all leaves are exposed to the heat. When the leaves are just barely tender, drain well in a colander and gently press out excess moisture with the back of a wooden spoon. Do not squeeze spinach dry. Spread the leaves on the surface of the colander and allow to drain further.