Goodness Shapes

The other day I was looking through old recipes for a dessert that would be simple, soothing and good eaten warm or cold. Lemon bread pudding jumped right out of the book.

I had forgotten about this unusual pudding. It reminded me of James Beard, who had loved puddings, custards and gelatine desserts. He use to call these homey desserts “cold shapes.” I took his “American Cookery” book off the shelf to read what he had said about the quivery desserts of long ago. The following is from his chapter on puddings:

“We have been one of the most dessert-minded of all countries except England, and we have inherited from England the family stand-by, puddings. In this category, perhaps the most extreme refinement of puddings and custards appeared in the early part of this century when gelatin desserts became popular. ‘Dainty desserts for dainty people’ became the catch phrase of the gelatin manufactures. “Even with the surge of dieters in this country, when it comes to sweets the weakness of will shown by most people is striking, to say the least. The way of the transgressor is straight through the pastry tray.”

The thing that is unusual about lemon bread pudding is that the bread is almost pureed with the eggs, milk, sugar and lemon. This easy mixture bakes into a moist, creamy lemon pudding. Try a little orange marmalade added to softly whipped cream and serve it with the pudding.

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Lemon bread pudding goes well with the earthy, richly flavored mushrooms, brown butter with pasta. This winter supper dish contains just six ingredients, but it’s a case where the sum is greater than the parts. Double the recipe when you make it, because it improves on reheating.

LEMON BREAD PUDDING

2 cups milk

2 cups small pieces fresh white bread, crusts removed

2 eggs

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon lemon extract

Sweetened whipped cream, optional

In mixing bowl, pour milk over bread. Let stand 3 to 4 minutes. In bowl stir eggs until well mixed. Add to bread mixture. Stir in sugar, salt, lemon zest and lemon extract. Beat well with rotary beater or whisk, about 1 minute or more, until mixture is very well combined.

Pour into buttered 1-quart casserole. Set casserole in shallow pan on oven rack containing very hot water 1/2-inch deep. Bake at 350 degrees until pudding has pulled slightly away from sides and is very light golden, about 60 to 75 minutes. Serve warm or cold with sweetened whipped cream to taste. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 4 servings contains about:

259 calories; 303 mg sodium; 116 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

MUSHROOMS, BROWN BUTTER WITH PASTA

1/2 pound shell or orecchiette pasta

1 cup beef broth

1 pound fresh mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced into 3 pieces

1/4 cup butter

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Cook pasta in large pot of salted, boiling water.

Heat beef broth in large saute pan. Add mushrooms and cook over low heat, stirring often, until mushrooms darken and are tender, about 5 minutes. Empty mushrooms into large bowl with any remaining broth. Keep bowl warm in low oven until until pasta is cooked.

Brown butter over medium-high heat in small pan. As butter melts, swirl pan so melting butter moves around. As soon as butter is nut-brown color, remove from heat.

Remove mushrooms from oven. Combine with drained pasta. Stir browned butter over. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Lightly toss until well mixed. Serve hot. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Each of 3 servings contains about:

458 calories; 523 mg sodium; 41 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 1.35 grams fiber.