Must Shopping, Here and There

People who live in Los Angeles, both natives and immigrants, are distinguished by a highly developed sense of entitlement.

The usually healthy streak of “I deserve” that courses through our veins expresses itself in everything from an intolerance for weather that deviates from 75 degrees and sunny to an expectation that clothes be flattering and pretty, not merely chic and black.

In contrast, residents of New York seem to more readily endure, if not court, humiliation. How else to explain the popularity of restaurants, stores and clubs staffed by condescending gatekeepers? That memorable Rodeo Drive shopping scene in “Pretty Woman” notwithstanding, salespeople in even the most exclusive places here are usually friendly, even nice.

In some perverse, Darwinian way, the hottest boutique in the world has probably benefited from its arrogance. Voyage (pronounced voy-AHZZ) is a little shop in London where lovely, ethereal, expensive clothes are sold to those with skins thick enough to withstand the abuse that’s dished out with the velvet-bordered cardigans.

The door is kept locked, and only the chosen few gain entrance. Inside the Fulham Road shop a silk rope bars all but the most favored customers, many of them celebrities, from a restricted lower floor. Touching the clothes is frowned upon, and since no price tags convey the essential information on how much the bloody things cost, shoppers are forced to ask prices of salesclerks who frequently seem to have much more important things to do.

Models and stylists discovered Voyage, which is designed by a married Italian team of aging former hippies, and according to British Vogue, the average supermodel drops $4,700 on a visit (Amber Valleta, Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss aren’t famous for their thrift).

The Voyage style relies on layers of precious fabrics that look rather lived-in. Rumors that Jade Jagger cleans her car wearing Voyage fueled the image of extravagance that has made the craftsy clothes even more desirable. They owe much to the rich, colorful, wildly patterned hippie/gypsy looks popular in the ‘70s, another time when London was a fertile field of new fashion ideas.

It’s remarkable how influential the creations of this one tiny little store, which buys no advertising and stages no fashion shows, have become. While you may never have heard of Voyage, and wouldn’t know why Melanie Griffith or Nicole Kidman or Julia Roberts chose that flocked velvet robe or chiffon skirt or faux ostrich collared sweater to face the paparazzi, the fashion world has paid attention. A host of designers, including Miu Miu and Jill Stuart, have mimicked the exotic florals, sexy bias cuts and velvet trims.

Barneys New York in Beverly Hills imports Voyage, housing it on the third floor in a corner that speaks of intoxicated Moroccan nights. Price tags do hang on the garments, which range from $265 to $2,100. Voyage tries to stay one step ahead of its imitators, so its new fall offerings include a peach wool cardigan bordered in satin and a long purple velvet jacket. At Barneys’, they don’t believe a snotty attitude is a necessary element of the Voyage experience. Lucky for us.

*

Destination Madison: The heat of Voyage is so intense now that a fashion hound’s visit to London wouldn’t be complete without a stop there. The two Madison stores, one on South Robertson in Beverly Hills and the other in Brentwood, have the same kind of must-see energy. If I didn’t live in Los Angeles, I’d make sure I got to Madison whenever I was in town, because it offers a short course in whatever’s happening in fashion--right now.

Madison began as a shoe store eight years ago. Mark Goldstein, 36, a graduate of Beverly Hills High and USC and onetime industrial real estate salesman, wanted to have a store with a strong point of view. He’s achieved that by carrying select designer lines in clothes and shoes. But his special talent has been in working with little-known designers, both in Los Angeles and in Europe, to develop items especially for his hip clientele.

“I don’t look at us as copiers,” Goldstein says. “We take influences from a number of people to create our own interpretations of great looks, so we can give our customer something that’s exciting and affordable.”

The Madison interpretation of Voyage is evident in printed skirts of vintage silk or chiffon with hems traced in velvet bands, and delicate slip dresses bordered in satin. Madison sells shoes by Gucci, Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana and Miu Miu, then works with the same Italian factories that produce those lines to create similar shoes that bear Madison’s private label.

The Madison shoes, including some they have made in Los Angeles, typically cost 30% to 40% less than the designer version. If Goldstein thinks his customer wants a fitted cashmere cardigan with a matching camisole, he finds a knitwear manufacturer in France who’ll make them to his specifications, in a variety of colors.

He’ll hunt for the right leather jacket in Italy, one with the sleekness of Ann Demeulemeester’s best, but not the price. He has an eye for the appealing detail: skirts in Prada’s fall collection were tipped with bugle beads; tulle tops featured beading and embroidery. Coming soon to a Madison near you --bugle bead-trimmed stretch velvet skirts and silk chiffon dresses and skirts decorated with embroidery and sequins.

Goldstein is especially proud of his local designers, including knitwear wizard Bette Paige and William B, whose forte is tailored pieces. “Our L.A. designers are becoming better known, but we’re for people who like to buy stuff that’s cool, even if no one’s ever heard of it.”