For Sauce, First Roast Your Tomatoes

This tomato sauce will surprise you. It has an appealing, rustic mixture of textures and flavors. Roasting the tomatoes intensifies their taste, a good technique when tomatoes are out of season and winter tomatoes can use an added flavor boost.

Figure on about 1 pound of pasta serving four people as a main course, depending on their appetites. Be sure to stir the pasta after it comes to a boil to keep it from sticking to the pot. Turn down the heat a little if the water starts boiling over but maintain a good rolling boil.

My Italian aunt used to finish a simple spaghetti supper with a chilled glass of cocoa topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. If you feel lazy about baking a big finish to your meal but still want to whip up something homemade, serve Aunt Frances’ Cocoa Dessert.

Marietta’s Spaghetti

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

12 Roma tomatoes (about 1 3/4 pounds)

Salt, pepper

3 cloves garlic

1 bunch parsley

1/2 cup olive oil

4 quarts water

1 tablespoon salt

1 pound dried spaghetti

2 tablespoons butter

1 bunch fresh basil (1/2 cup)

* Cut tomatoes in half lengthwise and place cut side up in 13x9-inch baking dish. Salt and pepper lightly.

* Peel and finely chop garlic. Wash parsley and pat dry; remove and discard stems. Finely chop leaves and set aside 1/2 cup. Put any remaining parsley in covered dish and place in refrigerator for later use.

* Mix together garlic, half the parsley (1/4 cup) and 2 tablespoons oil in small bowl. Using a spoon or your fingers, pat garlic mixture on tomatoes and drizzle on 2 more tablespoons oil. Bake at 350 degrees, uncovered, 45 minutes. Tomatoes should be mushy; if not, bake 10 minutes longer and test again.

* About 20 minutes before tomatoes are done, put water in 6-quart pot. Stir in salt and turn heat to high. When water reaches full boil, add spaghetti and stir. After about 12 minutes, start testing pieces of pasta every minute or so until the spaghetti feels tender but still firm. Pour water and spaghetti into colander set in sink; let noodles drain.

* Melt butter in small pot over low heat.

* Chop basil leaves into small pieces.

* In large serving bowl, mix together remaining parsley and olive oil, melted butter and basil. Dump in drained spaghetti and baked tomatoes. Toss together well and serve immediately.

4 servings. Each serving: 763 calories; 1,935 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 98 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 2.02 grams fiber.

Aunt Frances’ Cocoa Dessert

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes plus 1 hour cooling

1/4 cup cocoa powder

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup hot water

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 cups (1 quart) milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 scoops vanilla ice cream

* Use a saucepan that will hold about 1 1/2 quarts. Mix cocoa, sugar, water and salt in saucepan and set pan over medium-low heat. Don’t leave the stove to answer the phone until you finish making this. Stir steadily, but slowly, until mixture boils, then cook and continue to stir 2 minutes. Add milk and stir. Heat until warm (stick your finger in it). When warm, remove from heat and add vanilla. Refrigerate, covered, until you are ready to serve, at least 1 hour. Fill 4 chilled glasses 3/4 full and add a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

4 servings. Each serving: 296 calories; 299 mg sodium; 33 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 0.30 gram fiber.