Beaumont des Crayeres Champagne Brut Grande Reserve

At the holidays, you don’t want to dole out the Champagne. The whole idea is abundance. All too often, however, in the spirit of conviviality, people end up pouring insipid Champagnes chosen more for their price than anything else.

Here, on the other hand, is a French Champagne that’s affordable and delicious. It has everything going for it: a lovely, yeasty nose, skeins of fine bubbles and a creamy texture.

You could spend $100 a bottle for such a Champagne, but why, when you can get something as good as this for less than $30?

*

Quick swirl

Region: Champagne, France

Price: About $25

Style: Elegant and creamy

Food it goes with: Oysters, smoked fish, caviar and seafood in a sauce

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Du Vin in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; Joan’s on Third in Los Angeles, (323) 655-2285; Wine and Spirits in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019.