2001 Fontodi Chianti Classico

No question but that Fontodi is one of the best estates in Chianti. I’ve always been partial to its severely elegant Sangiovese puro, Flaccianello and Vigna del Sorbo, its single vineyard Chianti. In 2001, though, it made a brilliant Chianti normale that is definitely a great buy. Primarily Sangiovese, it has that enticing scent of wild cherries and plums overlaid with tobacco. In the mouth, it’s lush and beautifully balanced, about as classy as Chianti gets.

Of course, it’s terrific with Italian food -- wild mushroom risotto, pappardelle with duck sauce or a Tuscan bean soup perfumed with sage. But it’s so versatile it can go with entrees from steak tartare to roast chicken to grilled pork chops.

A beautiful basic to keep on hand.

S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Tuscany

Price: About $22

Style: Classically elegant

Food it goes with: Wild mushroom risotto, Tuscan bean soup, roast chicken, grilled pork chops

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; the Wine House in L.A., (310) 479-3731; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.