2003 Franz Hirtzberger Spitzer Riesling ‘Singerriedel’ Smaragd

An absolutely dazzling Riesling from one of the world’s great winemakers. Singerriedel is a grand cru vineyard tucked on a steep slope beside the Danube in Austria’s Wachau region, which is known for its dry, minerally whites. And what Hirtzberger does with these grapes is nothing short of magical. The 2003 Spitzer Riesling “Singerriedel” is ripe and powerful, but also has incredible finesse and complexity.

It’s a bottle to pull out for a special occasion, or to give as a gift to someone who really cares about wine. This is an expensive wine, but it’s also one of the great wines of the world.

These kinds of Rieslings are born to go with food. Think lobster, Santa Barbara spot prawns, stone crab claws, white asparagus.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Wachau, Austria

Price: About $75

Style: Concentrated and nuanced

Food it goes with: Lobster, spot prawns, crab

Where you find it: Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

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2000 Mauro Molino Barolo

Piedmont is the Burgundy of Italy in the sense that vineyards are small, yields are intentionally low and the very best wines from Barolo and Barbaresco are highly sought after. So it’s no small thing when a Barolo comes onto the market for less than $40 and it also happens to be quite fabulous.

The 2000 Barolo from Mauro Molino comes from La Morra and has classic La Morra characteristics -- a beautiful soft perfume, a delicate, haunting taste of earth and the nebbiolo grape, ripe soft tannins. It also has the stuffing to age. But why wait? It’s drinking beautifully now, perfect for a roast goose or standing rib roast.

If you can’t get this, Molino also makes two single vineyard Barolos, Gancia and Conca, that are a step up.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont, Italy

Price: About $40

Style: Classic La Morra delicacy

Food it goes with: Roast goose and other birds, standing rib roast

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; (800) 76WINEX; and the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

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2001 Marimar Torres Estate Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay

Everybody loves Chardonnay but not everybody loves over-oaked butterballs. Marimar Torres, however, consistently makes well-crafted, understated Chardonnays that complement food.

The 2001 Don Miguel Vineyard (named for her late father) is an exceptional Chardonnay for the price. It has everything going for it: a silky texture, ripe soft perfume, good acidity and a lovely finish. At this price, you won’t have to hide the bottle from the more exuberant relatives. Drink it with seafood as varied as oysters, shellfish, smoked salmon and scallops.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Russian River Valley

Price: Around $20

Style: Burgundian

Food it goes with: Smoked salmon, shellfish, scallops

Where you find it: Available at fine wine shops and retailers.