2003 Chateau de Valcombe ‘Tradition,’ Costieres de Nimes, France

Wine importer Robert Kacher has a nose for ferreting out great little country wines. This one is a real bargain, a blend of 30% Grenache and 70% Syrah from the hills outside the old Roman town of Nimes in Provence. The Syrah gives it a wild, untamed taste; the Grenache gives it finesse. An inky violet-red, the 2003 Chateau de Valcombe “Tradition” carries a hint of tobacco and brambly undergrowth along with a taste of dark plums and berries, which should be a brilliant match with charred meats from the grill. This wine can take every big flavor you throw at it.

Hard to believe you can find a wine for less than $10 with this much character. I don’t know how they do it.

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Quick swirl

Region: Rhone Valley

Price: About $8

Style: Gnarly and unfiltered

Food it goes with: Grilled meats, bold flavors

Where you find it: John & Pete’s Fine Wines in West Hollywood, (310) 657-3080; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Lazy Acres Market in Santa Barbara, (805) 564-4410. Soon to arrive at wine shops all over the city.