2003 Vina Sila Naiades Rueda

This marvelous, lush blanco from Rueda, the sole white wine appellation in Castile-Leon, doesn’t fit the typical profile for a Spanish white. Palest gold, the 2003 Naiades from Vina Sila is made from ungrafted Verdejo vines that somehow managed to survive the onslaught of phylloxera. That means old vines, 80 to 100 years old, and old vines mean small yields in this part of Spain. The result is a Rueda with great definition and nuance. Barrel fermented, it has a lush texture and a perfume of citrus and honey, and enough acidity to make it a terrific wine with food.

I’ve been drinking it as an aperitif, wishing I had a couple dozen oysters in front of me. It will make good friends with a seafood risotto -- or paella, of course -- spaghetti alle vongole, grilled fish or Dungeness crab.

Quick swirl

Region: Castile-Leon

Price: About $26

Style: Aromatic and lush

Food it goes with: Oysters, seafood risotto, paella, Dungeness crab

Where to find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731

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-- S. Irene Virbila