2003 Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny

When I lived in Paris, I walked for hours all over the city. Whenever I ended up in the Marais, I would stop in at La Tartine. This unpretentious bar vin specialized -- and still does -- in wines from the Loire. On a wintry day, nothing tasted better than a great slab of Poilane bread spread with rillettes or a crottin (aged goat cheese) and accompanied by a glass of Saumur-Champigny the proprietor picked up in the Loire Valley.

Most often appearing as a bit player in Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon dominates), Cabernet Franc gets star billing in Saumur-Champigny. The ruby 2003 from Chateau du Hureau would make a great wine-bar pour. Scented with raspberries and violets, it has an earthy quality and a bite very like green peppercorns. It’s terrific with charcuterie (especially rich pork or goose rillettes and rustic pates), roast birds and simple grills. And it’s inexpensive enough for everyday, but interesting enough for company.

Quick swirl

Region: Loire Valley

Price: About $13

Style: Medium-bodied, earthy

Food it goes with: Charcuterie, roast birds and simple grills.

Where you find it: Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310)855-1161; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463.

-- S. Irene Virbila