Bright and spicy for the holiday

2005 Lioco Chardonnay ‘Stuhlmuller’

A fat, oaky Chardonnay is definitely not what’s wanted with the holiday turkey and its kaleidoscope of flavors and fixings. But here’s a Chardonnay, produced by Spago sommelier Kevin O’Connor and wine importer Matt Licklider, with a slender, elegant profile that can more than hold its own at the festive table. The 2005 Lioco Chardonnay “Stuhlmuller” has a lilting perfume of lemon blossoms and white pepper. The Alexander Valley fruit sees only stainless steel, no oak, so you get the pure taste of the grape. With its lively acidity and chalky minerality, it’s as turkey-friendly as they come.

Region: Alexander Valley

Price: $20

Style: Crisp and complex

Where you find it: Widely available at fine wine retailers

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2005 Weingut Stadt Krems ‘Sandgrube’ Gruner Veltliner

With its green apple flavor and a hint of white pepper, Gruner Veltliner from Austria goes swimmingly with that roast bird, the stuffing, even the Brussels sprouts and the yams. Crisp and juicy with a bracing minerality, Weingut Stadt Krems “Sandgrube” Gruner should liven up the party. Beautiful winemaking from Fritz Miesbauer, former winemaker at Freie Weingartner in the Wachau.

Region: Kremstal, Austria

Price: About $17

Style: Lean and fragrant

Where you find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; and the Wine Cask in Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463

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2005 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Cuvee Traditionnelle Beaujolais

Vieilles Vignes

Real Beaujolais -- not the soda pop stuff known as Beaujolais Nouveau -- has the moxie to join in the holiday feast. This Beaujolais village wine made from old vines is a model of the genre with its bright juicy fruit that tastes of dark sweet berries. Unfiltered and made with wild yeasts, wines from Domaine du Vissoux have both finesse and muscle. In the spectacular 2005 vintage, this is truly a super-Beaujolais -- and quite the bargain.

Region: Beaujolais

Price: About $13

Style: Rich and structured

Where you find it: Liquid Wine & Spirits in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine Country in Long Beach, (562) 597-8303; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX