Full and deep in flavor, with notes of plum, spice and chocolate, this Barbera from one of Piedmont’s oldest wineries shows elegance and balance. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Dark ruby, with concentrated flavors of blackberries and dark cherries, the 2012 Saldo is big and bold, but dialed back just enough to call it elegant. Maybe it’s the touch of Petite Sirah and Syrah in the blend. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Gamay makes perfect fall drinking. Look to cru Beaujolais for some of the best. This Régnié from Dijon native (and avid surfer) Julien Sunier is a revelation. A gentler expression of Gamay, it is floral and delicately spicy. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Boekenhoutskloof’s “The Chocolate Block” is a red Rhone blend, like a South African version of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Syrah-dominated, but with some Cabernet in the blend. A warm, full-blooded wine which carries notes of coriander, black pepper and dark berries. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
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A glorious, full-bodied, velvety Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley that tastes of Santa Rosa plums, sweet spices and a smidgen of earth. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
A deep wine, with some weight to it, made from Gamay vines that are over 50 years old, the 2012 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly tastes of sun-ripened berries. Soft tannins and a long, satisfying finish only add to its appeal. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)