Slow-poached sturgeon with celery and radish salad, roasted beets and creamed spinach

Blanch the chives in salted water, shock them in ice water, then squeeze out the excess water and finely chop. In a blender, blend the chives with the grapeseed oil. Pass through a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Add salt to taste. Set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the horseradish, lemon juice, olive oil, 1 teaspoon of salt and a pinch of pepper until completely emulsified.

In a clean small bowl, toss the celery, celery leaves, smoked sturgeon, radishes and sprouts or microgreens with enough horseradish vinaigrette to coat the leaves. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

In a small saucepan, reduce the wine, shallots and garlic until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Add the cream and horseradish and cook, reducing by half. Add the olive oil and vinegar and whisk to blend . Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Toss beets with olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper. Put the beets on a sheet of aluminum foil and fold to seal. Put the beet package on a sheet pan and roast at 400 degrees until fork tender, about 1 hour. Peel and cut beets into one-quarter-inch slices, then use a 1 3/4 -inch cutter to cut disks out of the slices. Use the scraps for the beet puree. Warm the slices in a hot oven or microwave oven just before serving.

Blend the beets and stock in a blender until smooth. Add the vinegar and olive oil to the blender while it is running. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Blanch, shock, squeeze dry and coarsely chop the spinach. In a saucepan over medium heat, sweat the onion and garlic in the butter until soft. Stir in the flour, cook and stir until the flour is blended into the butter. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Simmer until slightly thickened. Stir in the spinach. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt and white pepper.

In a medium skillet, heat 2 1/2 cups water, white wine, parsley, bay leaf and thyme sprigs until just under a simmer, 170 to 180 degrees. Slow-poach the sturgeon in two batches in the court bouillon until just cooked, 10 to 12 minutes.

For each serving, place two slices of beets on each plate, top each with a quarter of the creamed spinach, poached fish, horseradish sauce and celery salad. Drizzle each plate with beet puree and chive oil.