2006 Hirsch Veltliner No. 1

Here’s a pretty Gruner Veltliner from Kamptal producer Johannes Hirsch. Bright and aromatic, the 2006 Veltliner No. 1 carries the scent of tart green apples and citrus. In fact, the effect is like drinking a glass of tart Granny Smith apple juice dosed with alcohol. But this seemingly simple wine has some structure too. A delicious wine for the price.

Oysters or littlenecks on the half shell are a great match. Serve it well chilled with grilled shrimp and scallops. It’s also a natural for sushi or crudo.

--S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Kamptal, Austria

Price: From $15 to $19.

Style: Crisp, fresh and minerally.

Food it goes with: Grilled and raw seafood.

Where you find it: Beverages & More stores, www.bevmo.com; Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles (Marina del Rey), (310) 306-2822, www.beveragewarehouse.com; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, www.missionwines.com; Wine Cask in Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463, www.winecask.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.